The alarm was set to 6 a.m. . The early alarm made us feel as we did not get enough sleep, as usual. The night was cold as expected. Mato took the longest to get out of his premium sleeping bag, as usual. Even Majo had a couple of hours of good night sleep despite the cold night and his sleeping bag from Lidl which was not very useful in the camp in Gran Paradiso. Hopefully he learned his lesson about minimum quality equipment needed for alpine expeditions.
Meanwhile the chef of the trip Jano with his loyal apprentice Miso prepared our traditional breakfast – oatmeal with milk, banana and chocolate. This nutritious bomb will surely give us enough energy for the climb to Carell hut. 7:45 we get into a car and head out in the direction of Matterhorn.
After 15 minutes drive we arrived on the parking lot Breuil Cervinia. Matterhorn showed itself basking in the early day sunlight right in front of us. We took couple of pictures, heaved up our backpacks and headed to the visitor centre. We got there around 8:30 and after a couple minutes of waiting, our pre ordered off road taxi pulled over. We almost started to think that we were going to have to walk the first stretch. We quickly loaded the beackpacks on the roof. The trunk of the car was customised and more seats were added so almost ten people could fit in.
After a while the road disappeared and was replaced with gravel winding steeply uphill. This drive surely saved us a lot of time and energy. 2O euro/person well spent. After driving cca 40 minutes we came to Abruzzi hut. From here we continued on foot. All the way to the summit. We put on the harnesses right away, took a group photo and full of expectations started the climb.
The first hour or so we walked on a busy path until we reached the first snow field. This on we cross without crampons. The snow is soft and easy to walk on. We walked past a couple of memorial crosses reminding us about the dangers of attempting the symbolic alpine summit.
After the snow field we came to the first climbing section. At this point Iki decided that he did not feel ok with going all the way up. After a short deliberation a final decision was made. A difficult decision, no doubt. No sense in pushing anyone to a climb like this. The mountain will wait (although the glacier and snow might not 🙂 ). There will be time to attempt the summit. The decision to turn back when you do not feel like it is never a wrong one.
Iki, a good friend as he is, gives us his water, swap Majo’s heavy jumper for his own lightweight mountaineering one and gives his expedition food to Mato (for which Mato got some friendly hate from the rest of us because he and Jano were the only ones who did not buy this food). We gave Iki the walkie-talkie so we would stay in touch. After a while we started the first climbing section. At the end of this was a sling, so there was no problem and we managed the first warm-up climb without any trouble (also Majo).
The next section was just walking with small snow fields here and there, with picturesque alpine views of the glacier Monte Rosa and Dofourspitze. Shortly before the saddle Col de Leone we had to use the rope. After about two hours of climbing we reached the saddle. Here we rested a little and had a snack.
When looking up at the ridge of Matterhorn we spotted our destination for the day – Carell hut. From here it was basically just climbing. Quite easy from the beginning, but more difficult the higher we got. We also used some of the old hempen ropes.
Eventually we reached the 15 m long vertical section secured with rope that must be climbed up the rope. Not mentioning we did it with the backpacks. Most climbers that go with a guide let the guide go and climb the section first and then pull them up. Some tie their backpacks to a rope climb up and then pull the backpacks up. On the other hand are we – hardcore climbers that climb this section with backpacks on; so then we can hate on the others 🙂 .
And so we did. Miso went first without a protection rope, only using the fixed rope already in place. On his way up he tries to help some german whose backpacks got stuck when they were trying to pull them up on the rope. He helped them this time but their bags got stuck again and that time not even Miso with his long arms could not help them and the german had to repell for their bags.
When Miso got up he made a belay station for the rest of us. Peto went last. A guide started to pull his client up before Peto. But even this way the 60 year old Englishman was struggling. Peto decided to help him by pushing him up with his shoulders. Common effort of the guide pulling and Peto pushing and the englishman doing his best fortunately resulted with the englishman getting up. But it seemed clear that the englishman would not get past Carrel.
After this difficult part there was one more short climb and we got to Carell. First sign was a characteristic stink comming from a nearby latrine. After 6 hours we finally entered the chalet Carell, although a tad worried because we did not have a reservation. Fortunately the keeper was very nice and we all got a bed. A little luck in mountains is always useful. When we settled, we went to sit on a terrace to eat our well deserved food. From the terrace was a beautiful view on Dent d´Hérens, Dent Blanche or Weisshorn all 4K and higher mountains. After that we called it an early night. Our alarm was set on 3 a.m . after all.
Short note on the water situation – the chalet is quite high and there is not a steady supply of water and to get to a glacier you have to repell and boil the ice/snow. We carried 5l of water all the way up and it was a good decision . In the chalet was a huge pot with water but it was only half full and not exactly clean.
The whole population of the hut started to rouse/stir around 3 a.m. so it turned out there was not even a need to set our own alarm. Evverybody was just hastily having „breakfast“ to get the needed nutrients for the day to come. Except one guy, not giving a damn, who started to boil water for just one egg. Guides were giving last instructions to the clients and the clients were trying to hide their jitters and excitement while putting on their harnesses. No wonder, they were a little uneasy, honestly, it would be strange if it would be otherwise. To be humble and conduct with respect, means to be safe in the mountains, especially with this particular mountain. To have good equipment and a little bit of skill is all and well, but quite useless when nature decides to show you who is the master and who but a mere visitor.
My own thoughts were not exactly straightforward either, but our mountain tested breakfast cheered me up. Bread with an honest home made plum jam from Jano’s grandma can work miracles on difficult summit days. After breakfast it was finally time to „nut up and/or shut up“. We put on the harnesses, clip on the equipment, slings, tied to rope team and headed out.
3:40 a.m. our goal is clear, to summit Matterhorn by the way of Liongrat ridge. Even kids in preschool subconsciously draw its sillhouette when they are told to draw a mountain. Maybe because of all the Toblerone candy their parents buy them 🙂 . This way is supposed to be slightly less difficult, so to speak compared to its Swiss counterpart. It is so, mainly due to many fixed belay points that are on this side of he mountain. These also help you to navigate on the ascend. The first rope is right behind the hut. However, it turned out that after our rushed breakfast I forgot to pack slings, so i hurried back to get them and now we actually were ready to start. Mato and Peto in the front , Me, Jano and Majo right after them. We got a proper warm up right from the start as the first rope was in an overhang.
The path was supposed to be easy to navigate thanks to all the ropes and other fixed points but we were not going to underestimate anything. After all, we were the only group attempting summit without the guide. Headlamps of the groups that went before us showed us the right way in the dark early stages and so we were able to manage the ropey parts in a fairly good time. Acording to our research the ropes were to be followed by rock slabs with iron circles. I would not really call it slabs but we found the circles and were able to continue. After a while we got to, a sort of, a ferrata. The cable was wet and slippery but nonetheless a good sign that we were going the right way. All we had to do was grab it like Majo some pillow and go (for you to understand, if it is at least one pillow in the room, Majo immediately grabs it and tries to squeeze every feather into microscopic particle)
After the ferrata came the last test of our theoretical knowledge of the mountain, based on a list of „compulsory reading“ composed by Jano. The more responsible members of our little academia tutored the less responsible the night before about the crucial/difficult parts, that are quite many. We needed to find the Gran Corda. It is actually a chain that was pretty difficult to find at the early morning hour in the shadow of the mountain. We stopped to have a quick snack near a memorial plate and let a German group pass us. We made sure our German colleagues were on the right way and enjoyed our energy bars.
As the first rays of sun stared to warm our faces Jano spotted the Corda right above us and to the left from the memorial plate. The Germans went the opposite way 🙂 so we quickly redirected them as we were still in shouting distance. And shortly followed after them.
From here the navigation is easy. We need only follow the ridge line along the fixed points. Mato ignored some of them proceeding with technique LR „Least resistance“ (They have already tested this technique in Paklenica, but back then they found some bigger resistance…) but eventually always managed to get to the proper path. The sun was up and we could clearly see which way to go. Our spirit was encouraged when we caught a glimpse of the summit cross, although it was clear, that we still had couple hours to go.
We proceeded along the ridge to Pic Tyndall 4 241, which is destined to stay in the shadow of its legendary neighbour. The views are breathtaking. Alpine glaciers scarred with steep rocky peaks all around. How many are we going to summit? How many are we even going to challenge? Back to reality. From the top, we need to repell into a small saddle below the main summit. From here we can clearly see the line all the way to the top.
In front of us there was a guide with a client making pretty slow progress which was a welcome change. After all/to be honest at this point at 4300 altitude we did not really have energy to walk any faster. We got to the most difficult section on the way up – rope ladder with wooden steps. You may think that a rope ladder cannot possibly be diffulct to climb, but let me tell you that at 4400 altitude it is not like going to an attic to get some old tools.
Here we were forced to split. When Mato and Peto were safely past the rope ladder, other groups that already had summited started to descend. This little tourist jam cost us about half an hour. The delay of our sub-group caused the guys ahead a small panic attack and one nervous call over the brand-new walkie-talkies that we had purchased right before this trip. We confirmed that we managed the rope ladder without any problems and were on the way. We reunited at the summit.
After 6,5 hours we finally reached the summit of Matterhorn – Mont Cervino to be correct – the mountain of 4476 altitude with its characteristic metal cross. The Swiss summit is 2 meters higher and covered in snow. We took couple of obligatory pictures with the cross and our flag like true patriots (only not on Krivan – our national symbol).
After that we wanted to walk over to the Swiss summit. For that we had to put on crampons and finally take the ice axes from our bags. From „our“ side of the mountain and under favourable conditions (we were quite fortunate up until now) this is the only place where you need winter gear. Again, we took a short „picture break“. The views were still beautiful…for a while. Five minutes later the top was swallowed by milk-white clouds.
We started descending. We decided to repell as much as possible. Mato and Peto went first and reported which way to go. Our descend was slower compared to other groups but we thought it safer. However, it did not take long for the clouds from the top to catch up to us and we found ourselves in a storm cloud.
After a while we started to hear a strange buzzing sound. Then we realized it was the sound of our ice axes getting charged with electricity from the clouds around. As if this was not enough, it began to hail. Not a situation you want to be in while descending along the ridge of Matterhorn, that is known for numerous fatalities. We had no other chance than to brace through it all and keep repelling. At least we were belayed most of the time by a rope or on belay station, which was nice. The ropes did not fail us even in these conditions, and we got out of the clouds after about two hours.
The worst was over and we even espied the hut and terrace with guides discussing todays hike and watching the wall in front for slowpokes like us. We had still an hour to go, and go we did. Majo probably prompted by the onlookers threw the rope from a belat station only to get slapped in the face with it as it got tangeled up. Just that moment a cloud was passing between us and the hut so only we got to laugh at this comedy act.
We were at the last point of replling, about 40 meters above the hut when the little comedy act was repeated, only this time I was the performer and the audience comprised of everyone on the terrace including Mato and Peto. I was about to throw down the nicely coiled rope, looked away for 0,00000001 s which was clearly enough for it to get tangeled and when I threw it down it fell only about 4 meters 🙂 . Karma is a bitch and the others got a good laugh, this time at me. And of course the rope got stuck getting it back down. I was clearly on fire…
Finally safe at the hut. The way down took us 8,5 h; all in all the whole day was 15 h of walking, climbing and repelling. Almost everyone who tried to summit today returned to the hut succesfuly = safely. Except two groups that we saw going up during our descend. We saw a rescue helicopter flying towards the top (which btw was not a rare sight, at least during our stay in the area) thus we assumed that at least one of the groups used this „shortcut“. We enjoyed a proper food , had a beer (it was only 3 euro including the mountain surcharge). The last thing to do was to inform our families that we safely made it there and back again (from the hut to the top and back) and get to bed. The next day we still had to walk down to the valley.
Falling asleep after a well deserved beer was very easy, although our rest was not meant to last. And our dreams were interrupted by „chalet keeper’s“ yelling. He was trying to communicate with the team, that did not make it to the cottage. In fact, he had been observing/monitoring the mountain with suspicion that someone might still be there, before we went to bed.
A while later his suspicions were confirmed, although none of us were able to see anything. Well, the keeper’s eagle eyes are something you cannot buy. He even told us not to lock the door in case some belated teams would return after sunset. Now it is about midnight, the wind is howling, temperature is below zero, it is snowing and these guys are still out on the mountain.
The keeper ran into Miso, who was just answering the night call from the nature, and asked him if he could borrow our termose, because he was getting ready to go save them and wanted to bring some hot tea to those poor climbers on the mountain. Only setback was that Miso has never seen the termose in his life and gently woke all of u sup to find out whose it is. In the end it did not belong to any of us , but when Peto saw Miso wearing his gore-tex pants it was enough for him to assume Miso was recruiting a rescue party and immediately started to dress up. Fortunately we did not have to go rescuing anyone, eventually.
Moreover as Mato noted we would only slow down the rescue and maybe even turned to rescuees ourselves. The next day our alarm went off at 6:15. we finnished what was left from Jano’s grandma jam with toast bread. If a toast bread is an ideal combination for jam is anyone’s guess, but we enjoyed it as any other time before. At this point it is as good as all inclusive standard for us. Maybe except for Majo, who dropped a spoon full of jam on the table – allegedly by mistake.
We left the cottage at 7 a.m. It was not easy to say goodbye to the beautiful panoramatic views from the cottage terrace. The night snow propped us to put the crampons right outside the cottage, dangerously close to the latrine which saw us off with a pungent odor. We set off with sentiment. Miso started to descend with commitment and made quick progress without any problems to the first repel point. The rest of the team was more cautious and joined in the rope team right outside the cottage. This caused us to split, but we met not long after on the belay station
We decided to descend as one team, thus we combined the ropes to get 60 meters lenght of repelling. Miso went first and Peter stayed on belay station as last because these two had a supernatural connection that allowed them to communicate and oversee over the safety of the descend. This connection called Motorola walkie-talkie. On one of the belay station we had a debate with a team of English guys from Liverpool. They wanted to repell with us as they saw we had a long rope, but when they found out that there were five of us and we were not in any hurry they decided to repel on their own shorter rope.
At 8:40 we were crouching on a slab from which we repelled down into the saddle. As we were all secured by rope and catching a breath, the chalet keeper emerged out of nowhere and swimmingly passed by us, waving and amiably wishing us a good day (his only equipment/hardware being the crampons). We quickly asked about the last night’s rescue, fortunately everything ended well for the „poor night climbers“ 🙂 .
The second repel section was followed by a somewhat easier terrain although there were a couple of onerous segments where we had to employ our mix climbing skills. Granting this was not the easiest part of the descent, but at least we got an excuse to make a little break and enjoy a snack once we were past it (in the saddle Colle del Leone). From this point, we were able to pick up the pace a bit as there were no fixed points. The terrain was snowy from the last night but fortunately stable.
As selfproclaimed experts we confidently ruled out possibility of an avallanche and continued ?safely? through the snow. Miso went first and the fixed points in this part were plenty, so we were protected at all times. Following the snowy sections everybody walked at his own pace which resulted in grotesque bickering between the fast leader and the fourth in line member of the group who, not once, found himself on his butt as a result of regular pulling of the rope.
While walking down we occasionaly called Iki, who was surely restless to see us. For the past three days he was colonising our 6-person tent, and his daily routine comprised of sleeping, eating, drinking. By the time we came down he was known by all the neighbouring campers. Partly also because during one of his many naps he psychotically skedaddled/exited the tent screaming. Later he described a big spider as a cause of this „peak of his athletic effort“ during the three days of pure hedonism in camp. Out of respect for our traumatised comrade, we agreed to pu up a mosquito net for the days to come.
As soon as we could see the Abruzzi hut, we concluded that we had two hours to go – tops. We tried to call a taxi for the estimated time. Unfortunately / Fortunately the first available car could pick us us up in 3 hours so we got a 1 bonus hour. Miso, Jano, Majo were first to Abruzzi chalet. Mato and Peto were somewhere behind. Maybe it was because they were tired and just walked very slowly. Maybe it was because Peto’s sleeping bag decided to go on a trek on its own, …. down the hill, …not exactly in the direction of the Abruzzi chalet. After this little delay the two needed to calm their nerves and while they were at it they also calmed their feet in a pond/ mountain lake near the chalet. Unfortunately / Fortunately the trio called them on the walkie-talkie that the taxi could take them down sooner, thus Mato and Peto’s feet stayed dry and sore as everybody elese‘s.
The group met in front of the chalet and victoriously shook hands, excited that we actually survived the summit of Matterhorn as well as the descend. However in this case the descend was not really over yet. The drive in the Land Rover Defender to the camp might very well be fatal. So even if we at times felt that we would never see the camp , our driver obviously knew every inch of the road and thus we experienced a bonus adventure in the form of an andrenaline drive in a jeep taxi.
We stepped out of the car a tad dizzy to see Iki welcomming us and two fellow mountaineers from Moravia flooding us with question about the climb . However all we cared about at this joyous moment was to take off our boots and feel the warm grass on our bare feet.
After we took a couple of calm deep breaths, a nearby ice-cream parlor caught our eyes. Eventhough the size of one portion was dependent purely on the barista’s mood we had no problem enjoying it. However we did not stop with just one ice-cream. Some of us thought combination with a beer would be a good idea (Peter and Majo), some chose more conservative (and very much characteristic) combination and bought Toblerone (Miso), some decided a jar of huge olives desrved to be finished (Mato), some mindful individual remembered his family and friends back home and bought a bunch of gifts and souvenirs (Jano), and lastly our designated driver who, in the last couple of days had just about the right amount of beer, chocolate and everything, was slowly sipping coca-cola (Iki). Following our little burgeoise – trip we returned to camp, unpacked, dried what needed drying and ate some more delicious camp food – couscous. Little later we met one of the guys from Liverpool (from earlier during our endless repelling) and gave some advice to Polish colleagues who were getting ready for their summit attempt.
The atmosphere in our camp was sublime = just right to go get a beer. So we did. Once i a pub we all* raised the glasses and …. drank. *(well all except Mato who for whatever reason ordered some fruity-yoghurt thing)
The shadows were slowly getting longer and our group of six „tunas“ were joyously babbling with a beer in hand and no specific plans for next days* feeling accomplished with fresh memories of succesfuly summiting Gran Paradiso and Matterhorn.
Thanks to these two giants for allowing us to reach their summits.
Acclimatization: Gran Paradiso
Accommodation: camp Glair about 20 min drive from parking lot in Breuil
Info: tourist info center in Breuil (hut reservation, taxi phone number, …)
Taxi: phone: +39 339 139 0055
price: 20€ per person one way (july 2019)
web site: www.rifugiorionde.it
Refuge Jean-Antoine Carrel – 3 830 m
We slept in Camping Glair about 20 minutes away from Breuil. We booked the taxi to Abruzzi hut at 8:30 am, so after breakfast we drove to Breuil and waited in front of the tourist office. After 40 minutes of drive on dirty and steep road we stood in front of a hut in elevation 2802 m. Another 1k vertical meters to go.
The first part of the route was not difficult, it was dirty road along with some rocks and stones. But we had quite heavy rucksacks (water and food for 3 days, climbing stuff, and so on…), so we proceeded slowly. After a while the route started to go steeper.
In this time of year, there were two or three places covered with snow, but they could be avoided through rocks if you want. No need for crampons this time.
There was no need to rope up, as well, until we arrived to traverse to Col du Lion saddle. There were some fixed points to belay and we added some of our own slings and friends.
The saddle is at the elevation of 3 479 m. Here we stopped for a short break and to eat something. There were still more than 300 vertical meters of climbing and hiking waiting for us.
The last meters before the hut were physically most difficult on the whole route to the Carrel hut. We had to climb vertical rock face with assistance of thick rope. On some spots, the rope is pinned down to the rock, so we could take short breaks along the way (in case of long breaks other people could express their disapproval verbally 🙂 )
The hut was very cozy, and the local guide (he was really guide from the local guide company down in the village) was very nice, as well. There were even common gas stoves and huge pot for melting and boiling water in the hut. The guide sometimes refilled it, but I wouldn’t count on it and bring enough of own supplies! Water could be also obtained by melting snow, but you had to rappel down a little from the hut. We didn’t use this option although we brought own gas stove. The views from the hut were breathtaking. We ate something, cooked tea and went to the bed. Alarm was set at 3 am.
Matterhorn – 4 478 m
It seemed that we didn’t have to set alarm after all, whole hut started to prepare around 3 am. We ate some bread with jam, tested carbohydrate food for breakfast on our adventures. Around 3:40 am we started our journey through Liongrat. The first fixed rope was directly behind the hut. Orientation on this ridge should be easier than on Hornli thanks to many fixed ropes and belay stations. But we climbed without guide only in the lights of headlamps, so we had to be very careful to not to lose the right way.
We tried to follow lights in front of us. We have read some articles before the climb, so we knew that after the first part that consists mainly from fixed ropes continued a part belayed with fixed iron circles. We found it and went further. Afterwards, the next part we had to find is fixed iron cables. In the early morning they were slippery and cold, but the route was quite clear thanks to them. The last tricky part was after these cables. We had to find La Gran Corda, huge rope, which was in reality iron chain. It was located to the left from memorial table after the cable part. We took a break in front of this table and in the light of the first sun rays it turned out that we were sitting almost under this chain.
After this we proceed mainly on the ridge itself. Sun was already up so we could see the route in front of us and fixed points are more frequent than I have expected.
Through the ridge we climbed up to Pic Tyndall (4 241 m). Between it and the main summit we had to rappel down one short length.
After rappel and a short walk, we stood in front of another part of climb to Matterhorn. It was still almost 300 vertical meters. Route was clearly visible and there were many fixed ropes and belaying points.
The last difficult part was almost under the summit. It was rope ladder with wooden steps.
Then it was just a little further and we stood on top of Matterhorn. Or Monte Cervino to be exact, the Italian summit with iron cross on top. It has taken us more than 6 hours to get there, but we have been three in one rope team. The elevation there is 4 476 m, Swiss summit is higher by 2 meters and covered by snow. For traversing it we needed crampons and ice axe.
Back to Carrel hut
After a short break and eating some snacks we started to go down. It’s true that the descent is more difficult than ascent. We decided to rappel down from every possible place so it was relatively safe even though a little bit slower.
The approaching storm clouds have us worried. Our concerns turned into reality in 2 hours when it started raining and hailing. It was quite serious situation considering we were on the one of Matterhorn ridges. But we continued rappelling and descending.
In another hour or two it stoped. We descended under the clouds and could see the hut. It was still several hours of descending.
Around 18:30 we stood in front of the Carrel hut. It has taken us more than 8 hours to descend but we were glad to be all alive and healthy. We ate some food and went to sleep. While descending we have met two pairs approaching the summit, none of them was in the hut yet. We’ve seen a rescue helicopter flying to the summit, so we thought at least one of the two teams went down this way. However, it was still not over for us, too. Tomorrow we have to descend back to Abruzzi hut and it’s not easy route down.
Descent to Abruzzi hut
During the night there was serious storm outside, we could hear hail smashing on the roof. Around midnight I woke up because someone was yelling towards the ridge. It looked like the second pair of climbers we have seen earlier was still up there, the whole time. The “hut guide” and some other local guides geared up and went up there. I haven’t heard another yelling during the night, so the rescue mission was probably successful.
As we saw in the morning, the night storm has brought a considerable amount of new snow on the route. We started descending with crampons. Like yesterday, we decided to rappel as often as it was possible. This time we went all together so we could use full length of our 60 m long twin ropes. On the first rappel point we created small traffic jam, but we let guides with clients go in front of us.
After the second rappel (120 m below) we continued by foot. We roped up into single team and went down. Until Col Du Lion it was relatively easy. There we started to belay again. There were fixed points along the difficult parts and in between we used own gear. This part of route was mixed climbing on ice and rock. In lower parts we went through the snow fields like when we went up.
We took crampons off after the last snow field in upper part of route. In front of us it was only easy descent to Abruzzi hut. We called taxi again for the way down to the village. The first free car was available in 2,5 hours. We arrived to the hut in 1 hour from the phone call. We were lucky, the taxi driver was already there so we could go earlier. We immediately bought some ice cream and other sweets in the village. Then we headed to the camp for a dinner, to relax and drink some beer.
Now it was time to celebrate. We climbed Matterhorn! 🙂
We chose Italian side because the huts on the way were much cheaper than on the Swiss side. Another positive thing was the orientation along the route – it was a little bit easier thanks to many fixed ropes and bolts along the route (we have read so on the internet and I could not really confirm, but it seemed straightforward even in the dark). The whole route from the Abruzzi hut to Carrel hut and through Liongrat to the summit was quite challenging. We had to climb continuously all the way – 600 vertical meters from the hut.
But what makes climbing Matterhorn difficult and tricky is in my opinion the descent. It’s as difficult as ascent if not more. And the same stands for the descent from Carrel hut. You have to be fully concentrated all three days and carefully consider all your steps along the ridge. But on the other side, you can rappel almost whole Liongrat back to the Carrel hut from fixed bolts. The amount of rescue helicopter flights during these three days and death of two climbers on Swiss side one day before our ascent confirms that it can’t be underestimated. Another important factor is weather, but I am sure everyone who considers going up there knows about danger that bad weather on the ridge of Matterhorn represents.
I hope this article helps you a little bit with insight into climbing Matterhorn on your own. If you are not sure if you can make it to the summit, hire a mountain guide. Enjoy!